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Untitled Information about Indonesia and Travel Guide to Hotels Map
INDONESIA
INFORMATION
EMBASSIES
MAP
Indonesia is a large archipelago in Southeast Asia that straddles the Equator between the Indian Ocean and the Pacific Ocean. It has land borders with Malaysia to the north as well as East Timor and Papua New Guinea to the east.
Indonesia Mosque
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  TIPS.   
Visas:
At February 1, 2004
The Indonesia Minister of Justice and Human Rights has announced that the VISA on ARRIVAL (VoA) will be introduced on February 01, 2004 for foreign visitors arriving by air in Jakarta (SOE-HAT), Bali (Ngurah Rai), Medan (Polonia), Manado (Sam Ratulangi), Surabaya (Juanda), and Padang (Tabing), as well as sea ports of Batam, Tanjung Priok, Belawan, Jayapura, Benoa, and Tanjung Perak. In short VoA eligible visitors will pay an entry fee upon arrival.

The Visa-on-Arrival (VoA) is required for nationals of 20 countries and one Administrative District:

The nationals of the United States of America, Australia, South Africa, Argentina, Brazil, Denmark, the United Arab Emirates, Finland, Hungary, United Kingdom, Italy, Japan, Germany, Canada, South Korea, Norway, France, Poland, Switzerland, New Zealand, and Taiwan will be able to apply for a VoA valid for either 3 or 30 days upon arrival in Indonesia. A 3-day visa will cost $USD10 while a 30-day visa will cost $USD25.

The 11 countries that retain visa-free status and need not purchase a VoA are: Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Brunei Darussalam, the Philippines, Hong Kong, Macao, Chile, Morocco, Peru, and Vietnam.
Citizens of countries not on the VoA or Visa Free lists are required to apply for a visa at the nearest Indonesian embassy, consulate or foreign mission.

Process for Obtaining a Visa on Arrival (VoA)
Visitors from countries with Visa-On-Arrival status will go to new 'VoA Counters' to have their passports stamped with the on-arrival visa before going to the Immigration Clearance Desk. An official bank will be attached in the VoA counters. Payment can only be made in US dollar bank notes or Indonesian Rupiahs equivalent. Payment by Credit-Card is under discussion and to be determined. In the bigger airports, like Jakarta and Bali, several rows of VoA counters will be provided.

Overstaying your Visa? - DON'T!!
Overstaying a tourist visa (or any visa) is a serious offence in Indonesia. Fines, blacklisting, confinement and deportation are all possible penalties for infractions. Please take this seriously!! If you inadvertently overstay your visa go immediately to an immigration office, once you realize it, and explain the circumstances. Delaying the report will only make the situation worse. There are only a few 'legitimate' reasons for overstay - the main one being inability to travel due a verified illness or injury. Also beware of the 30-day counting trap! Immigration officials count the 30-day period as: you arrive on the 1st day with a 30-day VoA, and you must leave on the 30th day (not the 31st day or the first of the next month etc.)

PRINCIPAL DESTINATIONS:
Bali
the very beautiful and enormously popular island. The beach areas are developed with hundreds of resorts from luxury to basic. The Balinese people endear themselves to every visitor. Bali has been largely untouched by the recent political turmoil.

Java
is the core of Indonesia, location of Jakarta, the capital. It is densely populated (112 million) and is the economic engine of the country. The remains of the ancient Hindu-Buddhist cultures of Borobudur and Prambanan are here. Islam replaced them in the 15th century, but the local flavour survives.

Lombok
Close to Bali but a lot quieter. Traditional Balinese culture is alive and well. Dancing, festivals and weaving.

Sumatra
Large and less populated. Remote forests and rivers and traditional tribal cultures. Resource rich with rubber, coffee, oil, timber etc.

Flores
The villages of Nggela, Wolojita and Jopu on the island of Flores are renowned for their beautiful ikat sarongs and shawls. The traditional whaling village of Lamalera on Lembata, east of Flores, is a fascinating place to poke around the boatsheds and watch whaling crafts.
Kelimutu's tri-coloured lakes are Nusa Tenggara's most fantastic attraction. The waters in the three volcanic craters have a curious habit of changing colour. Local legend has it that the souls of the dead go to the lakes. Which colour lake you go to depends on your conduct during your life.

Irian Jaya
Papua is one of the world's last wilderness areas. The Papuans live in some of the most rugged terrain on earth - from snowcapped mountains to mangrove swamps - in a region that offers fantastic jungle scenery, equatorial glaciers, abundant bird and animal life and great trekking opportunities.
Highlights include the Baliem Valley with its unique culture and numerous treks; Sentani for boat trips around the magnificent Sentani Lake; and Kota Biak for access to dive sites. Don't underestimate the size of Papua and the amount of time and money it will take to get around.

Kalimantan
If you're expecting to see half-naked, heavily tatooed Dayaks striding down the streets of Balikpapan or Pontianak, you'll be disappointed. Your first impressions of Kalimantan, which occupies the southern two-thirds of the island of Borneo, are likely to be of oil refineries and timber mills.
The popular images of Borneo stem from the exaggerated accounts of early European explorers. Timber and mining interests have penetrated deep into the jungles, bulldozing and chainsawing at an alarming rate, fouling rivers and leaving indigenous cultures reeling from these modern world intrusions.

Komodo & Rinca
These two small islands sandwiched between Flores and Sumbawa in eastern Nusa Tenggara are famous for their four-legged inhabitants - the ponderous Komodo dragons. The lizards can be quite fierce, and range from 20g (0.7oz) pipsqueaks to 130kg (287lb) monsters.
Komodo is a hilly desolate island, but Rinca's wildlife is fairly abundant - there are several monkey colonies, wild water buffalo, deer, bush turkeys and eagles. Ferries run to Komodo from Sape in Sumbawa and Labhuanbajo in Flores. To visit Komodo, you'll need to arrange a trip from Bali or Flores.

Maluku

The thousand islands of Maluku (formerly the Moluccas) were the fabled spice islands of history, which attracted Indian, Chinese, Arab and later European traders, who came in search of the cloves, nutmeg and mace that grew here and nowhere else.
These islands, sprawled across a vast area of ocean, offer tropical scenery with a Polynesian feel, exotic bird life, old forts, lovely villages and beaches, good snorkelling and diving, and no touts or pollution. You'll need at least five weeks to explore the islands by boat or three by plane.

Sulawesi
Most travellers head to the beautiful rugged hill country of Tana Toraja in central and southern Sulawesi, and the small town of Rantepao pulls in many of them. The Toraja have become the focus of tourist attention thanks to their elaborate ceremonies, burial sites and traditional houses.
The prosperous town of Manado, in northern Sulawesi, is renowned as the gateway to the stunning coral reefs off nearby Pulau Bunaken. Much of the coral has tragically been decimated by careless boat traffic, but the nearest drop-offs are within swimming distance of shore and remain unscathed.

Warnings:
A number of the more remote areas are volatile.
Aceh Province (north Sumatra) West Papua, Ambon and now Kalimantan.
Even clashes on Lombok (inter ethnic not against tourists). Get the most recent advice from your embassy if going away from main areas.
PREVIOUS:

09-10-2001: Trouble in Jakarta. All citizens of countries in alliance with the United States are potentially at risk.
The Australian Government considers Bali safe but says don't travel to the rest of Indonesia. If you are there stay low. 13-10-2002. Bomb attack in Bali. A large car bomb exploded today outside the main nighclub area in Kuta Beach.
There appear to be many people, mostly tourists, killed and injured.
The USA is considering withdrawing all non-essential personnel from Jakarta, after a recent explosion near the Embassy.
Unfortunately terror has come to Paradise. So now you would have to be careful about going to Indonesia if you are a western person,
especially a USA, Australian or British citizen.
2002. Reasonably quiet now. Though still some demonstrations. Be careful.

Politics:
Republic, ruled by a military dominated Government. Recent elections have installed a more moderate government who appear to be trying to resolve internal troubles by politics rather than military force. There are still independance movements in Aceh, West Kalimantan, Ambon and Irian Jaya. These areas are not safe for travel, violence and killings are common. Current advice should be had from your Embassy.
Money:
The currency is the Rupiah
Exchange Rate US$1 = R 8952 approx.
Travellers Cheques and cash (both in US$) is the best stuff to have. (This is true all over seAsia). Credit cards are accepted in up-market hotels and restaurants & stores, but not for general use. Cash advance on Visa and Mastercard is available from major banks. Some ATM's can give cash advance. Check your home bank's affiliations before you leave.
Time:
3 time zones: Sumatra, Java and West & Central Kalimantan are 7 hours ahead of UTC (GMT); Bali, Nusa Tenggara, South & East Kalimantan and Sulawesi are 8 hours ahead of UTC; and Irian Jaya and Maluku are 9 hours ahead of UTC.
Coming & Going:
AIR:
Most people arrive at Jakarta or Bali. All major airlines service these destinations. Airport departure taxes are from about US$7-10.
Short Hops: From Darwin (northern-most Australia) to Ambon (Maluku), Ujung Pandang (Sulawesi) and Biak (Irian Jaya) on New Merpati airlines.
Garuda has a Visit Indonesia Airpass which can be bought when buying an International ticket, number of destinations is variable.
LAND:
There are three land crossings to Indonesia: at Entikong, between Kalimantan and Sarawak; at Motoain between West and East Timor; and the road from Jayapura or Sentani (Papua) to Vanimo in PNG. Visa regulations have been fluid (to say the least) of late, so check the need for obtaining a visa in advance before you roll up at the border crossing.

SEA:
Most of the sea connections are between Malaysia and Sumatra and the vessel of choice is the comfortable high-speed ferry from Penang to Medan. The other main ferry connection is between Dumai (Sumatra) and Malaka (Malacca). Ferries also run from southern Malaysia (Johor Bahru) to the Riau Islands. There are speedboats from east-coast Kalimantan to Sabah in Malaysia.
Getting Around:
AIR: see Air Travel Page for a list of airlines and destinations.
Domestic airport (Kemayoram) is 3km from the Jakarta downtown.There are various internal airlines (Garuda, Mandala, Merpati etc). Around July-August in the peak season it is wise to book in advance.

LAND: Traffic goes on the left side of the road (hopefully).
Aircon coaches are usual on most routes. Roads are generally good on Java, Sumatra and Bali, but poor elsewhere.

Bus: There are regular services between most towns. Bus trips can be made from Jakarta to Bali (two days). Indonesia is the land of jam karet(literally 'rubber time') and complicated journeys involving more than a single change should not be attempted in a day. Vehicles can be very crowded. The crew includes three conductors who also act as touts. There are 'Bis Malam' night-buses on a number of routes, running in competition with the railways. Pre-booking is essential.
Cars, motorbikes and bicycles can be rented at most places, International Driving Permit is officially required.
There is a rail system on Java and Sumatra. In Sumatra trains connect Betawan, Medan, Tanjong Balai/Rantu Prapet (two or three trains daily) in the north, and Palembang and Panjang (three trains daily) in the south.

An extensive rail network runs throughout Java.The Bima Express, which has sleeping and restaurant cars, links Jakarta and Surabaya; there are also other express services. There are three classes of travel, but first-class exists only on principal expresses. There is some air-conditioned accommodation.

Short trips options are taxis (settle fare in advance), the famous "bemo" pick-up truck, mini-buses, rickshaws (motorised and personised), all are very cheap.
  FACTS.   
Communication:
IDD is available in the main cities.
Country code is 62. Area codes: Bandung=22, Jakarta=21, Medan=61, Surabaya=31. Yogyakarta=0274. Outgoing code is 00.
Telegram available 24 hours in Jakarta but less reliable elsewhere.
Electricity:
Generally 220 Volts AC. 50Hz. but 110 Volts, 50Hz in some areas.
Behaviour:
small tipping is expected for porters and guides, round up taxi fares to the nearest R500, but apart from that it not a general practice.
Climate:
Indonesia is a tropical country, and the climate is fairly even all year round.
There is no such thing as an Autumn or Winter, the year being roughly divided into two distinct seasons, 'wet' and 'dry'.

The East Monsoon, from June to September brings dry weather while the West Monsoon, from December to March, brings rain.
The transitional period between these two seasons alternates between gorgeous sun-filled days and occasional thunderstorms.

Even in the midst of the wet season temperatures range from 21 degrees (70°F) to 33 degrees Celcius (90°F),
except at higher altitudes which can be much cooler.
The heaviest rainfalls are usually recorded in December and January. Average humidity is generally between 75% and 100%.
Events:
On Sumba Island, Mock battles that recreate warfare are held in February and March. The day before Balinese Caka New Year (March-April) temple icons are taken to the sea to be bathed and drummers drive evil spirits back to the spirit world. During the Balinese festival of Galungan even the gods descend to earth and join in the revelry. There's a dramatic Easter Parade on the island of Larantuka, whip duels in Ruteng, Flores in August and Torajan funereal feasts are held in central Sulawesi, mainly between August and October. The Muslim lunar calendar means many festivals dates are pushed back 10 or 11 days each year.
The People:
Population of 203 million. Over 350 Ethnic and Tribal groups. Largest groups are the Acehnese, Bataks, Minangkabaus (in Sumatra), Javanese, Sundanese (in Java), Balinese, Sasaks and Dani (in Irian Jaya).

Indonesia comprises a range of diverse societies and cultures. However, mass education, mass media and a policy of government-orchestrated nationalism have created a definite Indonesian national culture, with Bahasa Indonesia as its medium. Its distinctive cuisine and handcrafts have made the leap into an international forum.

Batik, the art of applying wax to cloth and then tie-dying in colourful and dramatic designs, is produced throughout Indonesia, and the centre of this activity is Yogyakarta in Java. Other craft forms include: ikat, which is a type of weaving with tie-dyed threads; songket, a silk cloth with gold or silver threads woven into it; and kris, artwork often decorated with jewels. Javanese wayang (puppet) plays and gamelan (hypnotic music composed mostly of percussive instruments) are also popular artistic forms.

Many Indonesian dishes are Chinese-influenced, but some, such as Padang food from Sumatra, are distinctly home-grown. Wherever you travel in Indonesia you'll see vendors selling snacks such as potatoes, sweet nuts, biscuits or fruit. Rice is the basis of each meal, eaten as a soup or with an assortment of hot and spicy side dishes, salad and pickles. Nasi goreng (fried rice) is the most common dish, while sate (skewered meats with a spicy peanut sauce), gado-gado (bean sprouts and vegies in peanut sauce) and seafood are also popular. The variety of tropical fruits grown would make a greengrocer swoon. They include custard apples, durians, guavas, jackfruits, mangoes, papayas, starfruits and rambutans.

Social and religious duty has, over time, been refined to form a code of behaviour called adat or traditional law. Islam is the predominant religion of the archipelago but it's somewhat tempered by elements of Hindu-Buddhism, adat and animism. In Java, especially, there are hundreds of places where spiritual energy is thought to be concentrated and can be absorbed by followers. Despite a lengthy colonial period, missionaries were only successful in converting small pockets of the Indonesian population to Christianity - the Bataks of Sumatra, the Toraks of Sulawesi and 95% of the population of Flores being notable examples.

Language:
Official language is Bahasa Indonesia.
Religion:
A full 85 percent of Indonesians subscribe to the Islamic faith, ten percent to Christianity, two percent to Hinduism, and three percent to either Buddhism or animism.
Indonesian Tourist Promotion Offices:
USA:
Suite 104, 3457 Wilshire Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90010
Tel: (213) 387 2078. Fax: (213) 380 4876.
Web site: http://www.visit-indonesia.com
Also deals with enquiries from Canada.

Jakarta.
Direktorat Jenderal Pariwisata
Indonesia (Directorate-General of Tourism)
16/19 Jalan Medan Merdeka-Barat, Jakarta 10110, Indonesia
Tel: (21) 386 0934. Fax: (21) 386 0828.

United Kingdom:Indonesia Tourist Promotion Office
3-4 Hanover Street, London W1R 9HH Tel: (0171) 493 0030 or (0891) 600 180 (brochure request line; 50p per minute) or (0181) 220 5484 (accommodation info) or (0500) 600 798 (toll-free flight info; UK only).
Fax: (0171) 493 1747.
E-mail: itpo@hotmail.com; Web site: http://www.visit-indonesia.com
Opening hours: 0930-1700 Monday to Friday.

Health:
Dengue fever (The Aedes aegypti mosquito, which transmits the dengue virus, is most active during the day, and is found mainly in urban areas, in and around human dwellings. Signs and symptoms of dengue fever include a sudden onset of high fever, headache, joint and muscle pains, nausea and vomiting. A rash of small red spots sometimes appears three to four days after the onset of fever. Severe complications do sometimes occur. You should seek medical attention as soon as possible if you think you may be infected. A blood test can indicate the possibility of the fever. There is no specific treatment. Aspirin should be avoided, as it increases the risk of haemorrhaging. There is no vaccine against dengue fever).

Giardiasis (This travellers favourite is caused by a parasite, Giardia lamblia, which you acquire by ingesting food or water contaminated by the hardy cysts of the parasite. Giardia can also infect animals, and may be found in streams and other water sources in rural areas, especially on trekking routes. The illness usually appears about a week after you have been exposed to the parasite, but it can appear several weeks after. It may cause a short-lived episode of typical 'travellers diarrhoea', but it can cause persistent diarrhoea. You often notice weight loss with giardiasis, as it can prevent food from being absorbed properly in the upper part of your gut. Giardiasis can start quite suddenly, with explosive, watery diarrhoea, without blood. More often you get loose, bulky, foul-smelling faeces that are hard to flush away (assuming you have the luxury of flushing, of course), with lots of gas, bloating, stomach gurgling and cramps. You can sometimes get a mild fever and often feel nauseated, with little or no appetite, 'indigestion' (heartburn) and rotten-egg burps. Although all these symptoms commonly occur in giardiasis, note that they are nonspecific symptoms and can occur in other types of diarrhoea too – eg you can't assume you've got giardiasis just because you've got rotten-egg burps. You should ideally have a laboratory test to diagnose your illness before starting a course of antibiotics, but if you are in a remote area away from medical help, you could take either metronidazole (250mg three times daily for five to 10 days) OR tinidazole (2g single dose -tinidazole is not currently available in the USA).

Hepatitis (Several different viruses cause hepatitis; they differ in the way that they are transmitted. The symptoms in all forms of the illness include fever, chills, headache, fatigue, feelings of weakness and aches and pains, followed by loss of appetite, nausea, vomiting, abdominal pain, dark urine, light-coloured faeces, jaundiced (yellow) skin and yellowing of the whites of the eyes. Hepatitis A is transmitted by contaminated food and drinking water. Seek medical advice, but there is not much you can do apart from resting, drinking lots of fluids, eating lightly and avoiding fatty foods. Hepatitis E is transmitted in the same way as hepatitis A; it can be particularly serious in pregnant women. Hepatitis B is spread through contact with infected blood, blood products or body fluids, for example through sexual contact, unsterilised needles (and shaving equipment) and blood transfusions, or contact with blood via small breaks in the skin. The symptoms of hepatitis B may be more severe than type A and the disease can lead to long-term problems such as chronic liver damage, liver cancer or a long-term carrier state. Hepatitis C and D are spread in the same way as hepatitis B and can also lead to long-term complications. There are vaccines against hepatitis A and B, but there are currently no vaccines against the other types. Following the basic rules about food and water.

Japanese B encephalitis This mosquito-transmitted viral infection of the brain is a risk only in rural, rice-growing areas, and is thought to be a very low risk for travellers. It can be fatal, however, and may cause permanent brain damage in those who recover. There is an effective vaccine, and you should take measures to avoid mosquito bites.

Malaria If you are travelling in endemic areas it is extremely important to avoid mosquito bites and to take tablets to prevent this disease. Symptoms range from fever, chills and sweating, headache, diarrhoea and abdominal pains to a vague feeling of ill-health. Seek medical help immediately if malaria is suspected. Without treatment malaria can rapidly become more serious and can be fatal. If medical care is not available, malaria tablets can be used for treatment. You should seek medical advice, before you travel, on the right medication and dosage for you. If you do contract malaria, be sure to be re-tested for malaria once you return home as you can harbour malaria parasites in your body even if you are symptom free. Travellers are advised to prevent mosquito bites at all times. The main messages are: wear light-coloured clothing; wear long trousers and long-sleeved shirts; use mosquito repellents containing the compound DEET on exposed areas (prolonged overuse of DEET may be harmful, especially to children, but its use is considered preferable to being bitten by disease-transmitting mosquitoes); avoid perfumes and aftershave; use a mosquito net impregnated with mosquito repellent (permethrin) – it may be worth taking your own, and impregnating clothes with permethrin effectively deters mosquitoes and other insects).

Rabies (This is a fatal viral infection. Many animals can be infected (such as dogs, cats, bats and monkeys) and it's their saliva that is infectious. Any bite, scratch or even lick from a warm-blooded, furry animal should be cleaned immediately and thoroughly. Scrub with soap and running water, and then apply alcohol or iodine solution. Medical help should be sought promptly to receive a course of injections to prevent the onset of symptoms and death), typhoid (Also known as enteric fever.

Typhoid is transmitted via food and water, and symptomless carriers, especially when they're working as food handlers, are an important source of infection. Typhoid is caused by a type of salmonella bacteria, Salmonella typhi. Paratyphoid is a similar but milder disease. The symptoms are variable, but you almost always get a fever and headache to start with, which initially feels very similar to flu, with aches and pains, loss of appetite and general malaise. Typhoid may be confused with malaria. The fever gradually rises during a week. Characteristically your pulse is relatively slow for someone with a fever. Other symptoms you may have are constipation or diarrhoea and stomach pains. You may feel worse in the second week, with a constant fever and sometimes a red skin rash. Other symptoms you may have are severe headache, sore throat and jaundice. Serious complications occur in about one in 10 cases, including, most commonly, damage to the gut wall with subsequent leakage of the gut contents into the abdominal cavity. Seek medical help for any fever (38?C and higher) that does not improve after 48 hours. Typhoid is a serious disease and is not something you should consider self-treating. Re-hydration therapy is important if diarrhoea has been a feature of the illness, but antibiotics are the mainstay of treatment)

Geography:
Covering and area of 1,905,000 sq. km's. Capital City is Jakarta (Population 9 million). There are 13,000 islands. Two-thirds of the land is forest and swamp, the burning of forests has caused grave pollution over the entire area at times, causing illness and even hazardous navigation for planes and ships.

Major Cities:Jakarta (the capital; 1990 Census population: 8.2 million), Surabaya (2.5 million), Bandung (2.0 million), Medan (1.7 million), Semarang (1.2 million).

Indonesia's rich natural environment encourages a diversity of flora and fauna. The archipelago is home to elephants, tigers, leopards and orang-utans. Sea turtles are found in the waters around Bali and the world's largest flowers - Rafflesia arnoldii - grow in Sumatra. The islands of Papua, Java, Kalimantan, Sulawesi and Sumatra have national parks, while other parks protect special areas such as Komodo, home to the Komodo dragon. Rainforests are disappearing at an alarming rate, especially in Kalimantan where the mighty dipterocarp forests are being logged ferociously for their durable tropical hardwoods.

The Indonesian archipelago comprises more than 17,000 islands - 6000 of which are inhabited - and shares borders with Malaysia and Papua New Guinea. Stretching like a backbone down the western coast of Sumatra is a line of active and extinct volcanoes. These continue through Java, Bali, Nusa Tenggara, then loop through the Banda Islands of Maluku to northeastern Sulawesi. Under 10% of the total land area is suitable for farming, while two-thirds consists of woodland, forests and mangrove swamp (mostly found in Sumatra, Kalimantan, Sulawesi and Papua).

Draped over the equator, Indonesia tends to have a fairly uniform climate - hot. It's hot and wet during the wet season (October to April) and hot and dry during the dry season (May to September). Temperatures climb to about 31°C(88°F) in coastal regions, dropping further inland. The best time to visit Indonesia is from April to October.

HISTORY:
It is generally believed that the earliest inhabitants of the Indonesian archipelago originated in India or Burma. In 1890, fossils of Java Man (homo erectus), some 500,000 years old, were found in east Java. Later migrants ('Malays') came from southern China and Indochina, and began populating the archipelago around 3000 BC. Powerful groups such as the Buddhist Srivijaya empire and the Hindu Mataram kingdom appeared in Java and Sumatra towards the end of the 7th century. The last important kingdom to remain Hindu was the Majapahit, which was founded in the 13th century. The subsequent spread of Islam into the archipelago in the 14th century forced the Majapahits to retreat to Bali in the 15th century.

By this time, a strong Muslim empire had developed with its centre at Melaka (Malacca) on the Malay Peninsula. Its influence was shortlived and it fell to the Portuguese in 1511. The Dutch displaced the Portuguese and began making inroads into Indonesia. The Dutch East India Company based in Batavia (Jakarta) dominated the spice trade and took control of Java by the mid 18th century, when its power was already in decline. The Dutch took control in the early 19th century and by the early 20th century, the entire archipelago - including Aceh and Bali - was under their control.

Burgeoning nationalism combined with Japanese occupation of the archipelago during WWII served to weaken Dutch resolve, and it finally transferred sovereignty to the new Indonesian republic in 1949. Achmed Soekarno, the foremost proponent of self-rule since the early 1920s, became President. In 1957, after a rudderless period of parliamentary democracy, Soekarno overthrew the parliament, declared martial law, and initiated a more authoritarian style of government, which he euphemistically dubbed 'Guided Democracy'. Once in the driving seat, Soekarno, like many like-minded military strongmen, set about consolidating his power through monument-building and socialising the economy, a move that paradoxically opened up a huge divide between the haves and have-nots and left much of the population teetering on the edge of starvation. Rebellions broke out in Sumatra and Sulewesi, Malaysia and Indonesia came perilously close to an all-out confrontation and instability was the general order of the day. Things came to a head in 1965, the eponymous Year Of Living Dangerously, when an attempted coup (purportedly by a Communist group) threatened Soekarno's hold on power.

Soekarno won that particular battle but lost the war when the man responsible for putting the coup down, General Soeharto, wrested presidential power from him in 1966. Soeharto started off with a nice line in political reconstruction, but the promises of economic reform and greater government transparency quickly degenerated into much of the same-old same-old. Nepotism, cronyism and grandiose spending, coupled with the brutal massacre of East Timorese nationalists in Dilli in 1975, proved that much of the talk was mere rhetoric. By March 1998 Soeharto was out of touch with the people and, perhaps seeing the writing on the wall, awarded himself only five more years in office. He never made it - by the end of May that year, with the economy freefalling and street violence flaring, he was out of office and the vice-president, BJ Habibie, was installed.

Habibie, never popular to begin with, mouthed the same promises of reform and even appeared willing to consider independence for East Timor, but it was all too little too late. The uncompromising stance by East Timor set off a chain reaction and sectarian violence, student protests and increased demands for independence spread like wild fire through Ambon, Kalimantan and Papua. Rogue militia groups, widely thought to be controlled and equipped by the Indonesian miltiary, rampaged through East Timor after it overwhelmingly voted for independence in 1999; local police forces and parts of the army were sent in to quash other rebellions; protesting students were killed in the streets and the whole country went to hell in a handbasket.

A UN peacekeeping force brought stability to East Timor but prompted Indonesian outrage at the 'meddling in internal affairs'. When the dust finally settled the East Timorese had been granted independence over the smoking ruins of their country. Soon afterwards Abdurrahman Wahid became Indonesia's first democratically elected president. By 23 July 2001, he'd lost the confidence of parliament and was replaced by the inscrutable Megawati Sukarnoputri.

Indonesia faces numerous crises - rising Islamic extremism, military insubordination, official corruption, a fledgling and fragile democratic process, and the many separatist movements threatening to tear the country apart. On 12 October, 2002, bombs targeting Western tourists claimed around 200 lives in Bali. An extremist group with links to Al-Qaeda was responsible.

Religious violence also plagued the Maluku islands, where Christians and Muslims reached a short-lived peace deal in February 2002. In April 2002, masked gunmen massacred 14 Christian villagers. Fighting between Christians and Muslims has claimed more than 6000 lives since 1999. In Irian Jaya and Aceh, guerrillas have been fighting for independence from Jakarta for decades.

Megawati Sukarnoputri’s presidency deserves credit for restoring social stability and economic growth but was widely condemned as ineffectual in combating rampant institutional corruption. In September 2004, 80% of Indonesian voters turned up to vote in the country’s first direct presidential ballot. Charismatic retired general – and sometime crooner - Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono (who holds an American management degree) won handsomely.

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