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Untitled Information about Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) Hotels and guesthouses and Travel Guide.
SAIGON (Ho Chi Minh City)
INFORMATION
HOTELS
TRAVEL AGENTS
RESTAURANTS
INTERNET
MAP


EMBASSIES
Ho Chi Minh City, commonly known as Saigon, is the largest city in Vietnam and the former capital of the Republic of Vietnam (South Vietnam).
It has everything you expect from a large bustling Asian city.
Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City)
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  TIPS.   
Visas: see Vietnam Introduction page.
Communication: General Post Office is at 2 Cong Xa Paris, 7:30am-7:30pm.
Telephone: Country code is 84. Area code for Saigon is 08.
COMING & GOING:
Tan Son Nhat International Airport hosts flights from many major international airports, as well as domestic flights from eleven centres. If you can't travel directly to Ho Chi Minh, the next best route is via Bangkok or Hong Kong.

Buses run to the city from Cambodia and Laos, while buses and trains also link Ho Chi Minh City to most major towns in the country.
GETTING AROUND:
Metered taxis, cyclos (pedicabs) and motorbike 'taxis' run the route from the airport to town, with official taxi meters in US dollars. Unless you're happy about paying four times the going rate, avoid the airport Taxi Booking Desk. Cyclos are the most popular form of transport among travellers. They're cheap, everywhere, and the usually helpful drivers are happy to steer you around all day for a small fee. Taxi rental is also a good deal if you're headed further out of town. Probably because the routes and timetables are a constant mystery, foreigners rarely make use of the few buses in the city, confident travellers can rent a moped or bicycle.

If you're more interested in the journey than the destination, Ho Chi Minh is a good city for walking around, with one drawback - the traffic. Learn to cross roads by observing locals. Because Ho Chi Minh stretches along the Saigon River, many people enjoy seeing the sights from a boat. Small boats are easily hired, and many destinations are located along the banks of the river or one of several long canals.
GEOGRAPHY:
Area: 2,356 sq km. Population: 6.06 million. Time Zone: GMT/UTC +7. Telephone Area Code: 08
Districts: numbers from 1-12 are used rather than named "suburbs", shown as D1 etc below.
The downtown area of Ho Chi Minh City is now officially called District 1, though you will still hear some people call it Saigon. Stick to either District 1 or Ho Chi Minh City - that way, nobody will be confused or offended.

Orientation is quite simple in this city - a relief if you've been travelling to other Asian destinations. Since the Vietnamese language uses Latin-based lettering, signs are easy to read. However, the street numbering can sometimes be confusing, as they can comprise a generous quantity of letters as well as numbers.

Budget travellers tend to congregate around Pham Ngu Lao at the western end of District 1. Cholon (Chinatown) has plenty of cheap rooms, but Western backpackers are still rare here. Travellers with a little more cash prefer the more upmarket hotels concentrated around Dong Khoi St at the eastern side of District 1. Pham Ngu Lao and De Tham Streets form the axis of Saigon's haven of budget eateries.

Tan Son Nhat International Airport is only 7km (4.3mi) from the city centre. Trains, including the infamous Reunification Express from Hanoi, arrive from the north into District 3, just north of the city centre. Cheap buses - unreliable and/or unsafe - run from a variety of locations around the city, including Cholon (for Mekong Delta connections) and the Binh Tranh District (for all northern destinations).
Money:
Currency is the Dong in notes from d200 to d50,000. Exchange rate is about 16,299 Dong = US$1. US$ is used widely for pricing and also for payment in many instances. Airlines and trains charge "foreigner" prices (like Burma) which are 3-5 times more than locals pay.

Vietcom Bank for changing TC's and Visa/Mastercard advances, is at the corner of Ben Chuong St. and Pasteur St (7-11:30am and 1:30-3:30pm, closed Sat afternoon) and a branch at 175 Dong Khoi St, near the Continental Hotel.
Sacombank at 211 Nguyen Hai Thoc , corner of Pham Ngu Lao St., for changing Travellers Cheques and getting Credit Card advances (Visa & Mastercard).
ATM machines. ANZ Bank, 11 Me Linh Square. Hong Kong Bank, New World Hotel Annexe, 75 Pham Hong Thai St. Withdrawls are only in Dong (max is 2 million a day !)

CLIMATE:
The best time to visit weather-wise is the dry season between December and April, when the humidity is more manageable. The crowds start getting heavy around November and stay through March. The Tet Festival in late January or early February is an exciting, if extremely hectic, time to visit.
Attractions:
Giac Lam Pagoda. Believed to be the oldest in the city, dated from 1744. On lac long QuanSt, north of Cholon in District 10, about 1km (0.6m) northwest of Phu Tho Stadium. 6am-9pm daily.
Believed to be the oldest pagoda in greater HCMC, Giac Lam Pagoda dates from 1744. The architecture, layout and ornamentation remain almost unaltered by the modernist renovations that have transformed so many of Vietnam's religious structures. Several monks live at this Vietnamese Buddhist pagoda, which also incorporates aspects of Taoism and Confucianism.

Ornate tombs greet visitors at the entrance to the compound, as does a gleaming white statue of Quan The Am Bo Tat, the Goddess of Mercy. Inside, there are photographs and portraits of monks from the past and an impressive sanctuary with countless gilded figures. Prayers are held four times daily, and consist of a rare, traditional blend of chanting, bells, gongs and drums. The pagoda is


Giac Vien Pagoda. next to the Dam Sen lake in a more rural setting. Built about 200 years ago, open 7am-7pm daily.

Emperor of Jade Pagoda (Phuoc Hai Tu) built in 1909 in chinese style, filled with statues of divine beings and frightening heroes drawn from Buddhist and taoist traditions. Its at 73 Mai Thi Luu St.
War Remnants Museum in the former US Information Service building. At the corner of Le Qui Don St. and Vo Van Tan St. in the central area. 80 cents admission.
Museum of Ho Chi Minh City. 65 Ly Tu trong St. Displays of stuff from the various wars with foreign powers. Open 8-11:30am and 2-4:30pm Tuesday to Sunday. Admission is 80 cents.

Reunification Palace. 106 Nguyen Du St. Open 7:30-11am and 1-4pm daily. US$1 admission.This is one of the most fascinating sights in HCMC, because of its striking modern architecture and the eerie feeling you get as you walk through the deserted halls. The building is preserved almost as it was on the last day of the Republic of Vietnam in 1975. A statue of Ho Chi Minh and a viewing room are the latest additions.

On the morning of 30 April 1975, the 43-hour-old government of South Vietnam sat quietly on the second floor of this grand building - then called the Independence Palace - waiting to transfer power to the Northern forces who were crashing through the wrought iron gates below. 'There is no question of you transferring power,' they were told by a Viet Cong officer. 'You cannot give up what you do not have.'

It is partly because of the rich history of this building - and partly because of the striking modern architecture - that this building is one of the most fascinating sights in the city. The building took its current form in 1966 after it had been partially destroyed in an attack by South Vietnam leader Diem's own air force (they really hated him, it seems). Now, the building is a magnificent example of 60s architecture - airy and open, with spacious chambers and tasteful modern decorations. The building is still used for official functions.

The most interesting section of the Reunification Palace is the basement - a network of tunnels and rooms, including a war room and a telecommunications room. One of the tunnels stretches all the way to Gia Long Palace, now known as the Revolutionary Museum.
Zoo, Botanical Gardens and History Museum. Founded in 1864 by the French. Delightful trees and space to stroll. The Museum is inside the gate, it has displays of artefacts going back 3000 years.

Saigon Water Park. A large fun park with pools, rides etc for all the family. Kha Van Can St. There are several other water parks also.
Massage. The Vietnam traditional Medicine Institute, 185 Cong Quyen St. US$2 per hour for straigh forward massage. Also Sauna available. 9am-8pm daily. Upmarket Hotels usually offer legitimate massage as well.

Ben Thanh Market. Here, you will find practically every staple commodity imaginable. If consumerism offers intimate glimpses of how people live, wandering among the tiny, packed stalls here will give you some unique insights into modern Vietnamese life. The food court here has delicious and very tasty local specialties. Produce, flowers, and meats are sold on the sidewalks surrounding the building.

EVENTS:
The major event in Vietnam - celebrated with extra vigour in Ho Chi Minh City - is the Tet (or Lunar New Year) Festival. It's a time when the Vietnamese gather together and hope for the future. It's also everyone's birthday. Tet falls between 19 January and 20 February and lasts a whole week in the south. Public transport often shuts down for several days at this time.

During the Saigon Cyclo Race professional and non-professional cyclo drivers find out who's fastest; money raised is donated to local charities. During the Festival at Lang Ong, people pray for happiness and the health of the country at the Ong Temple in HCMC's Binh Thanh district; plays and musical performances are staged.

Public Holidays
1 Jan - Tet Duong Lich
3 Feb - Thanh Lap Dang CSVN
30 Apr - Saigon Giai Phong
1 May - Quoc Te Lao Dong
19 May - Sinh Nhat Bac Ho
8th day of the 4th moon - Phat Dan
2 Sep - Quoc Khanh
25 Dec - Giang Sinh

SHOPPING:
Generally speaking, anything not marked with a price sticker can be had for about two thirds the price first quoted.

While there are fine shops throughout District 1, there are several streets which are especially good for shopping, particularly Dong Khai, and Le Thanh Ton behind the Rex Hotel. Many shops here sell jewelry, amber, ceramics, antiques, furniture, silk and apparel. The stalls along Le Loi Street between Ben Thanh Market and the New World Hotel sell all kinds of war surplus and hardware items.

Lacquerware made here is practically the best in the world and is still a real bargain. Scores of shops around District 1 sell boxes, trays, desk accessories, vases and other lacquerware items. Rosewood boxes and bowls are especially lovely. These make wonderful gifts.

HCMC's tailors are reminiscent of Hong Kong's before the seventies. Custom made shirts usually take three to four days and cost seven to ten dollars, not including the fabric. While there are dozens of good tailors in District 1, one recommended is Nha May Cuong, who has shops at 59 Ly Tu Truong and at 247 Le Thanh Ton. Mr. Cuong will escort you to Ben Thanh Market to help you select the fabric first. Another good choice is Albert Thanh, whose shop is at 22 Vo Van Tan Street District 3.

If you are a Coffee lover, buy enough to fill those empty corner of your luggage. Vietnamese coffees are among the best in the world, and very inexpensive. Because Saigonites drink so much of it, the beans on display in scores of shops around District 1 are always quite fresh.

PLACES NEARBY:
Cu Chi Tunnels
Now a district of the greater city, Cu Chi was the site of intense action during the American War. To see signs of this destruction, you have to dig deep - underground. Not even 40km (25mi) from the city, the area around Cu Chi was nonetheless controlled by the VC through its now-legendary system of tunnels. At the height of the war, the tunnels stretched from Saigon through to the Cambodian border; in Cu Chi district alone there were over 250km (155mi) of tunnels, some several storeys deep. These days, some of the tunnels - enlarged and upgraded - are open to the public, and give a fair idea of the conditions within the system. At their peak, the system of tunnels included kitchens, living areas, hospitals and a network of trap doors to guard against gas and water attacks. Cu Chi town is northwest of Ho Chi Minh City, and is best visited in a hire car or an organised tour. It is not well served by public transport.

Tay Ninh
Not far from HCMC, Tay Ninh is home to one of the most colourful and eclectic religions in the world. Cao Daism, formed in 1919, is made up of influences from Buddhism, Confucianism, Taoism, native Vietnamese spirituality, Christianity and Islam, with a formal structure based on the Catholic Church.

Most travellers to the area visit the nine-level Cao Dai Holy See complex , 4km (2.5mi) east of the main town, to get an idea of the ins-and-outs of this chimeric ism. Tay Ninh is easily reached by bus, though many visitors arrive by taxi on a day trip that includes the Cu Chi tunnels.

Vung Tau
A beach resort on the South China Sea coast, has been a favourite getaway destination for Ho Chi Minh city residents for over 100 years. Site of the final major evacuation of US troops during the war, Vung Tau was also the berth for would-be refugees fleeing the communists in the mid-1970s.

The beaches are far from beautiful and the water is polluted so most of the party action goes down offshore. Although increasingly commercialised and prone to petty theft, the town still boasts enough natural attractions to cycle on and climb up, and it still lures travellers in generous numbers.

  FACTS.   
Warnings:
Watch closely for pickpockets, even the cute kids milling around you trying to sell something. Hiring a Cyclo at night-time might get you robbed. Police may hassle you at night on some pretence to get a bribe from you. Don't wander off into unpopulated areas.
Health:
Travel Medical Consultancy. tel. 8357644. 10 Nguyen Canh Chan St. District 1. Foreign doctors, mon-fri daytime only.
French Consulate clinic. tel. 8297231. 27 Nguyen Thi Minh St. District 3. Mon-Fri.
Cho Ray Hospital. tel.8554137-8. 201B Nguyen Chi Thanh St. District 5. 24 hour emergency.
The Emergency Centre. tel.8225966. 125 Le Loi St. District 1. 24 hours. English, French speaking.
HISTORY:
From the first to the sixth centuries, the south of what is now Vietnam was part of the Indianised kingdom of Funan. The Hindu kingdom of Champa appeared around present-day Danang in the late 2nd century and had spread south to what is now Nha Trang by the 8th century. The Chinese conquered the Red River Delta in the 2nd century and their 1000-year rule, marked by tenacious Vietnamese resistance and repeated rebellions, ended in 938 AD when Ngo Quyen vanquished the Chinese armies at the Bach Dang River.

During the next few centuries, Vietnam - divided between the northern Trinh Lords and the Nguyen Lords of the south - repulsed repeated invasions by China, and the Nguyen expanded its borders southwards from the Red River Delta, populating much of the Mekong Delta. This area included the site of present-day Ho Chi Minh City. In 1858, French and Spanish-led forces stormed Danang after several missionaries had been killed. A year later, Ho Chi Minh City (then Saigon) was seized. By 1867, France had conquered all of southern Vietnam, which became the French colony of Cochin-China. The city became the capital of a large area including present-day Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam in the late 19th century, with the French modelling the city after their own image. Ho Chi Minh City today still wears its French influence for all to see with wide boulevards, French architecture and a devout Catholic population. But the French never won over the hearts of the locals, so resorted to running the city as a ruthless, money-making enterprise based on opium, tea, coffee, rubber and alcohol.

Anti-colonial groups sprang up in the decades prior to WWII, with the most organised being the Communist Party, who organised several successful strikes before the government initiated a brutal crackdown on their activities.

During WWII, the Japanese occupied French-held regions in Asia; however, they - along with the French - met resistance from a force of communists called the Viet Minh, led by Nguyen Tat Thanh - better known as Ho Chi Minh. Due to their opposition to the Japanese, Ho's forces received funding from the Americans and the Chinese. Ho Chi Minh's declaration of Vietnamese independence after WWII sparked violent confrontations with the French, culminating in the French military defeat at Dien Bien Phu in 1954.

A peace agreement, negotiated in Geneva, divided Vietnam into north and south regions . Ngo Dinh Diem, a communist-hater and fierce Catholic, took control of the south, with Saigon his capital. Almost a million refugees streamed from the communist north into Diem's region. When it came time for an election, Diem, sure that he would lose to Ho Chi Minh, held a rigged referendum and declared himself president of the republic of Vietnam. In December 1960 the north announced plans to 'liberate' the south with the formation of the National Liberation Front (known in the South as the Viet Cong). Meanwhile, unrest at Diem's tyrannical rule was boiling over into massive demonstrations and even acts of immolation by Buddhist monks. He was assassinated by his own troops in November 1963.

Throughout the 1960s, more and more American and other Western troops began pouring into Vietnam to assist the southerners in their guerilla-style war with the Viet Cong. Over 500,000 USA troops were in Vietnam in 1969. The following few years saw the US withdraw from the seemingly unending conflict. In March 1975, with the Western forces long gone, the North mounted a surprise attack on South Vietnam's Central Highlands. The South Vietnamese decided to concede some ground, and retreated to a more defensible position. This unplanned withdrawal turned into a rout as the Southern army panicked and the Northern army kept marching. South Vietnam's President Thieu resigned on 21 April 1975 and fled the country, leaving his deputy in charge. He lasted a week, and his replacement survived for 43 hours before surrendering to the Communists. The first official act of the North Vietnamese was to change the name of Saigon to Ho Chi Minh City.

Easing into what was to become a brutal crackdown, the North's program of reunification (officially called liberation) was accompanied by large-scale political repression. The property of hundreds of thousands of people was confiscated, and many were imprisoned in forced-labour (or 're-education') camps. Revenge continued for well over a decade, with the children of suspected 'counter-revolutionaries' deprived of education and employment opportunities. Largely for this reason, Ho Chi Minh is a centre for widespread poverty, illiteracy and crime.

After the collapse of the Soviet Union, the government - deprived of much-needed aid - had no choice but to seek reconciliation with the West. Ho Chi Minh City has adapted well to this rapid change, with new buildings and a greater hope for the future. It stands poised to become one of Asia's great metropolises.

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